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This event is all the more remarkable because it's the first time that many of these works have been exhibited in public. Viewing them together, at the place where they were painted, is a once in a lifetime opportunity. The first room, which was probably my favorite, portrays the pleasures of summer. Caillebotte's three-panel triptiyque, exceptionally reunited for the exhibition, features men paddling on the Yerres River, a swimmer preparing to dive into the refreshing water and a man with a fishing pole quietly contemplating the river as it flows past.

Using the application that accompanies the exhibition, it felt as though the painter took my hand for a private guided tour. It houses ancient Roman hot and cold baths, the original statues pulled off Notre-Dame in by furious revolutionaries, and so much more. It has a terrific gift shop to boot. The Best Parks and Gardens Paris has parks for every taste and interest offering flowers, rare plants, and views of the city as well as puppet shows, pony rides, and museums.

Here are some of its best. Chapter 11 has more information. In keeping with the French style of parks, trees are planted according to an orderly design and the sandy paths are arrow straight. During the summer, a carnival features an enormous Ferris wheel with great views of the city and some other thrill rides, a fun house, arcade-style games, and snacks. The Best Shopping Though the city has a well-deserved reputation as a bastion of over-thetop luxury to understand why, head for the eighth arrondissement , discount, resale, and overstock stores also abound.

The best shopping is really in the boutiques and covered passageways, but I always end up spending time in the following stores. See Chapter 12 for more information on the stores listed here. The bottom-level hardware smorgasbord has electronics need a power converter? Look no further and even the typical Parisian signage from house numbers to no parking signs.

You can find the top designers here, and the basement toy store has great gift selections. The third floor is particularly renowned for its large shoe selection and lingerie department where dressing rooms have phones to summon a salesperson. There are more than theaters, competing opera houses, and ballet and chamber music concerts in many churches. Even if your French is rusty or not up to par, many avant-garde productions and English-language theaters serve as alternatives to French-language plays.

In this section, I list some of the best places to see theater, watch a ballet, or hear a symphony. See Chapter 15 for more information. Listed here are some of the best places to dance the night away. See Chapter 16 for more information. A fantastic place to end up at midnight and return home whenever.

The Parisii were peaceful fishermen who traded with other tribes along the river and with travelers on the main north—south trading road that connected the Mediterranean with northern Europe. Unfortunately, the road made attacking the Parisii all too convenient for invaders. The first and most successful were the Romans, led by Julius Caesar in 52 B. Around A. In the late s, Frankish king Clovis I successfully wrested control away from the Romans and, in , established Paris as his capital.

The city was all but abandoned years later, only to regain the status of capital in , when Hugh Capet was proclaimed king of France. Although he added monuments and splendor to the city, the Sun King moved his court to Versailles, alienating the citizenry and paving the way for the French Revolution. On July 14, , a mob stormed the Bastille prison, which held many who were out of favor with French royalty.

To most French citizens at the time, the Bastille was a symbol of much that was wrong with the monarchy, and the attack came to represent the end of the monarchy. On July 14, , the Festival of the Federation was celebrated on the Champs de Mars, and an estimated , attended a Mass at which the king swore an oath of loyalty to the constitution. Still, radical factions grew. On August 10, , revolutionary troops joined a Parisian mob storming the Tuileries Palace, where the king lived, and took him prisoner.

In , the king and Queen Marie Antoinette were beheaded in the place de la Concorde. At this time, Maximilien Robespierre was elected leader of the Committee of Public Safety, which conducted witch hunts for those it deemed counterrevolutionaries; this became known as the Reign of Terror. Between September and February , men and 31 women were tried and executed for crimes against the state. He was executed the same month. During his reign, he gave Paris many of its most grandiose monuments, notably the Arc de Triomphe and the Bourse, but his greatest gift was starting the Louvre.

During the 19th century, France experienced the intellectual and artistic developments that define it as a nation today. In the years that followed, Paris witnessed two world wars with more than ten million military casualties, nearly one million Jews losing their lives, and four years of German occupation. Tens of thousands of soldiers died fighting the end of French colonial rule around the world.

Young people hurled paving stones at police in street battles, and ten million French workers throughout the country went on strike. This nearly led to the collapse of the government, and De Gaulle called for new elections. Almost as quickly as the student and worker revolution started, it was over; in June , voters elected an even stronger De Gaulle administration.

De Gaulle, himself, resigned in The government flirted unsuccessfully with socialism in the s and ended the decade with a great celebration of democracy — the bicentennial of the French Revolution and the centennial of the Eiffel Tower. Former Paris Mayor Jacques Chirac was elected president in on his promise to jump-start the economy, but growth remained stagnant, and the president was forced to share power with Prime Minister Lionel Jospin.

In , Chirac signed a controversial law making it illegal for headscarves, part of the dress code for Muslim women, to be worn in public. In , the French legislature voted to ban the wearing of burqas garments worn by Muslim women that cover the entire face , which was supported by a vast majority of the French population.

The anger and violence turned into a months-long series of riots that spread throughout urban areas of France. In a very heated and publicly debated election, in Nicolas Sarkozy became the president of France. The media frenzy covering his marriage to former model and singer-songwriter Carla Bruni and the subsequent tabloid coverage of their life together are regarded as unnecessary and distasteful. The effects of the recent crisis and subsequent recession in the United States was felt worldwide, and the French economy suffered for four quarters before continuing to grow again, performing better, on average, than many other countries.

However, in an effort to slow down a rapidly growing public deficit, in , President Sarkozy announced a national budget with the greatest spending cuts in the last two decades — this was met with much public anger for the semi-socialist republic. Another cultural and political shift in France that may surprise return voyagers is the February legislation making it illegal to smoke in public places; this includes cafes, bars, restaurants, and other venues.

The public has responded with polarized opinions about the ban but now ultimately respects the new laws. In addition to the mixture of styles associated with the 19th and 20th centuries, different architectural eras are represented in Paris, among them the Ancient Roman, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, classical classicism , and rococo periods. Unearthed during the construction of rue Monge in the s, the public gathering place held gladiator competitions and could house up to 15, people.

The architects during this period built large churches. None survive intact in Paris; all were improved upon with different architectural styles or rebuilt. Saint-Julien le Pauvre also in Chapter 11 was originally a Romanesque church, but later Gothic additions obscure the original details. Windows with stained glass were constructed so that most of the illiterate population could understand the stories told in each pane. Gargoyles drain spouts , spires, flying buttresses, rose windows, and choir screens were all features of the Gothic church.

Roofs became steeply pitched, and dormer windows were built taller, using stone.

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